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Annals of rail transport

by Chandra Edirisuriya

From the Daily News of Thursday, 13 December 2001


First locomotive on Sri Lanka Railway
Engine shed at Kadugannawa and original engine 

Rail transport started in this country with the running of the first train from Colombo to Kandy on April 26 1867. In due course, the Colombo - Kandy line was extended to Matale, in 1880. Colombo was connected to Badulla via Peradeniya Junction in 1924, to Kankesanthurai via Polgahawela Junction in 1905, to Trincomalee and Batticaloa via Maho and Gal Oya Junctions in 1927 and 1928 respectively, to Talaimannar Pier via Medawachchiya in 1914 to Puttalam via Ragama Junction and to Matara in 1895.

In addition to the broad gauge railway to the above destinations Colombo was connected with Opanayake via Ratnapura by a narrow gauge line in 1919. As this line followed the Kelani River it came to be known as the Kelani Valley (KV) line.

GEC Alstom locomotive of Sri Lankan Railway
The newest addition to the Sri Lanka Railways fleet of locomotives, the M9 Alstom engine.

It is significant that the introduction of the railway into this country and to India was contemporaneous with its birth in England because the British were keen on having a cheap mode of transport for passengers and goods in their colonies. The British Government had opened up vast tracts of land in the low country as well as the upcountry, by giving it at one rupee an acre, to those who had the money, to grow tea, rubber and coconut.

Plantation produce was taken to railway stations, by bullock cart and later by motor lorry, from where it was transported by train to Colombo to be exported. Passenger transport by the railway went hand in hand with goods transport and the trains provided three classes of compartments. The first class compartments were well appointed with cushioned luxurious seats.

There were also the first class sleeping berths. The second class compartments were a little less in comfort and there were also the second class sleeping berths. The third class compartments had wooden louvre type seats with a liberal coating of French polish. All compartments were made of Burma teak wood and there were even wooden carriages painted brick red to transport horses for races at Nuwara Eliya and Galle.

We, as small boys, liked to see the horses standing with their heads visible above the neck, through the window in the carriages. There were even boxes in the guard van to transport animals like dogs, the doors to which could be opened from outside. Even now there are wagons for the transport of cattle and goats.

Class M7 locomotive built by Brush
M 7 class locomotive imported to mark the second visit of Queen Elizabeth II.

The first and the second classes in the trains were at first exclusively used by Europeans. So much so when my father and mother travelled for the first time by second class from Gampaha to Nawalapitiya, around 1930, when my father was the Head master of Ginigathhena Government mixed school and my mother, an Assistant Teacher, soon after their marriage, some Europeans on the train had questioned as to how natives could travel second class.

My father had explained to them that, as a Government servant he was entitled to second class railway warrants.

The locomotives at that time were steam powered, ranging from powerful double engined garrote class, bison shaped giants, majestic class A load A locomotives to the smallest shunting engines. The class A load A locomotives were named after British Governors and the lesser ones after leading colleges like Ananda College, S. Thomas' College, Royal College, St. Joseph's College and St. Peter's College.

The last class A load A steam engine, painted red, was named after King George VI.The first diesel electric locomotives to be brought to this country were the MI class General Electric brick red engines, resembling elephants, from Britain and the inaugural run was from Colombo to Kandy, taking Queen Elizabeth II, by special train, on her first visit here in 1953. The next year, in 1954 M2 class locomotives made at Montreal Locomotive Works (MLW) in Canada were brought under Colombo Plan Aid.

My first trip by train was on the KV line from Pannipitiya to Cotta Road, in 1947, when my father and mother were at Kottawa Government Mixed School and I was a standard 3 student at Dharmapala Vidyalaya, Pannipitiya. In 1950 and 1951 when I was at Ananda College and boarded at 18, Hedges Court my father used to take me home, for weekends by the 7.35 p.m. Diesel De Luxe, with box spring cushioned seats, from Maradana to Gampaha.

The Ceylon Government Railway (CGR) as it was then called, was operating its services very smoothly at the time. There were no train delays. If a train got late by even two minutes, explanation was called for from the train crew. So much so I used to travel by the 6.20 am Badulla night mail train from Gampaha. On Mondays returning to the College hostel, after a weekend at home and it almost never got late, arriving at Maradana at 7.00 am.

One day in 1954 as the train stopped at Maradana railway station and started, on its last lap, to Fort railway station, a First Class sleeping berth attendant was shouting, holding a golf umbrella out of the window of the moving train "Mahattaya, Mahattaya Kude Beriwela" (Sir you have forgotten to take your umbrella). Just then a gentleman in a well starched tussore suit and tie ran up to the man and took the umbrella. It was Prime Minister S. W. R. D. Bandaranaike returning, with his family, after a weekend in Nuwara Eliya.

Coming out of the railway station I saw their CY series blue Plymouth limousine under the porch.

The long distance trains were like castles those days with excellent restaurant facilities. The only complaint was an occasional cockroach in a compartment.Sometime later Chinese made steel compartments were imported replacing wooden ones and M4 class MLW locomotives also came in. Power sets were imported for suburban use the first being those received under the Sri Lanka America friendship program. Later Schindler Swiss made powersets, Hitachi and of Chinese made followed.

Romanian compartments were added to the rolling stock subsequently. In the mid 1960s WI Henschel and W2 class, diesel hydraulic locomotives were imported from West Germany and East Germany, respectively. Krupp locomotives from Germany and Kawasaki locomotives from Japan were brought for the KV line. Already Hunslett Locomotives had been imported for shunting purposes. The preference was for the diesel electric type in view of future electrification and M5 class, Hitachi, M6 class Henschel, M7 class GEC to mark Queen Elizabeth II's second visit, M8 Indian and finally M9 class Alstom locomotives, were imported.

The last mentioned ones are fitted with two units of 1600 bhp each, engines, ideally suited to long distance haulage of heavy loads on flat terrain, once Sri Lanka is unified, once again, to Kankesanthurai, Talaimannar Pier and Trinco-Batticaloa.

The railway was the safest mode of transportation those days but there is a doubt now about it, because of the number of accidents in later years starting with the Talaimannar-Colombo train accident at Wilwatte in Mirigama in 1965, owing to a drunken driver exceeding speed limits on a bend.

Train delays, uncleanliness of both compartments and locomotives, sub-standard catering in restaurant cars and above all the discourtesy and indifference of employees in station masters' offices, to commuters are the negative factors that detract from attracting passengers to train travel, even though fares are less than half the bus fares.

Puttalam to Chilaw by rail - in a converted motor bus
Something to rail about
By Satish Goonesinghe
From The Sunday Times 28th January 2001
This was no Great Railway Journey, like the BBC ones of the eighties and nineties. In our brief journey, we skirted the north-western coast of Sri Lanka where the scenery is so different from what we see in other parts of the country. But what was particularly interesting was that this short hop between Puttalam and Chilaw was made in a converted motor bus, a form of a 'hybrid' rail vehicle - a rail-bus as the Sri Lanka Railways (SLR) calls it.
The Colombo-Puttalam rail line covers a distance of about 83 miles (134 km) and was completed in 1926. Our journey which was made just in the distal segment of the line, commenced at the New Puttalam station, which is situated about a mile from the city centre. The old station is located farther away facing the lagoon. Why are the two stations located wide apart?
History has the answer to this. During World War II, the line from Puttalam to Bangadeniya was removed in order to utilize rails for more important routes, but subsequently the line was re-laid even going north beyond Puttalam. As a result, we have a new station and a redundant old station in Puttalam. It's quite a walk to the new station from the bustling city centre.
I wanted to take the rail bus leaving at 4.06 p.m. There was hardly any activity in the station at 3.30 p.m. when I reached there. I found a stationary Class S7 Japanese push-pull type train and the "rail-bus" at the station. Farther away there was a Class W1 German Henschel diesel hydraulic locomotive (The Sri Lanka Railways classifies its locomotives and trains by designating them to 'classes" - e.g., push-pull trains belong to Class S, diesel hydraulic locomotives to Class W, diesel electric locomotives to Class M etc).
The rail bus marked RB-7/RB-8 without any class being assigned to it, looked different from the conventional long trains. It comprised two conventional motor buses coupled permanently back to back. For obvious reasons there were metallic wheels in place of rubber tyres and there was no steering wheel. The driver's compartments at either end were partitioned from the rest of the vehicle. This great improvisation was the work of our own rail engineers at SLR's Ratmalana Railway Workshop.
By 4.00 p.m., there was a lot of activity when many passengers began boarding the rail bus leaving for Chilaw. The passengers reflected the rich ethnic diversity of Puttalam - bearded Moslems, Tamil girls in salwars and Sinhala villagers in their traditional dresses. The driver and his assistant were in the front compartment, while the traditional "railway guard" with his whistle and flags sat in the rear one.
The whistle was followed by the sound of a "bus horn'' and the rail bus started its southward journey to Chilaw.
For a moment I had the notion that I was in an Ashok Leyland bus, such was the sound of the engine. The seats and the rest of the interior were those of a bus, but the sonorous sounds coming from rails and wheels were certainly those of a train. The vertical and side-to-side swaying movements were typical of a local railway journey.
Some of the passengers were to continue their journey south of Chilaw while others were to get off at intermediate stations like Madurankuli, Mundel, famous for its annual fire-walking ceremony. Some passengers I spoke to found the rail bus to be a faster and more convenient mode of transport than the road. The rail bus plies between Puttalam and Chilaw twice a day in addition to the normal train services that are available. The initial part of the journey is sandwiched between the A3 highway and the lagoon. Farther to the west one can see the mighty Kalpitiya peninsula on the horizon. In bygone times, we were used to the sight of the net traps for prawns, fishermen in canoes and boats in the lagoon with nets. However, today, the lagoon area has undergone a massive transformation with the opening up of prawn hatcheries and prawn farms. Large billboards advertising prawn and shrimp feed can be seen everywhere. With the setting sun in the background, these rectangular pools containing masses of crustaceans are a spectacular sight.
The rail bus continued its journey at quite a speed, stopping at all stations. The station names apparently have different linguistic roots - e.g., Madurankuli, Pulichchakulam with Tamil roots and Battuluoya, Mangalaeliya with Sinhala roots, reflecting the cultural diversity of the north-western coast.

Pleasantries were often exchanged between station staff and the passengers at most of the stops, as most were closely-knit small communities. In the second half of the journey beyond Pulichchakulam, the surroundings were transformed. There is no lagoon to be seen south of Pulichchakulam and from about this point the aridity of the surroundings changed to rich green vegetation. No longer could we smell the typical brackish aroma of the lagoon. I could not see any more palmyrah palms beyond this point. The rail bus travelled through large coconut plantations and patches of paddyfields.

En route the rail bus passed over two large rivers - Battulu Oya and Deduru Oya. Just imagine - a motor bus passing over rail bridges! Deduru Oya is considered a boundary that divides the wet zone from the dry zone. After passing Bangadeniya, famous for its roof tiles we finally reached Chilaw around 5.20 p.m., and there were many men, women and children with sacks and baskets on the platform, waiting to get into the rail bus for its return journey to Puttalam. There was pandemonium as they attempted to "reserve" seats even before we disembarked from the rail bus. For my part I felt like going back to Puttalam on the rail bus, but I had to continue to Colombo because of commitments.
I completed the remainder of the journey in a conventional Class S8 Korean Hyundai push-pull train. It was a brief, but unusual travel experience which I found more interesting because of the diverse and friendly people.
It appears that the basic function of our rail buses is to take passengers from one point to another cost-effectively, in areas where there is a relatively low load factor. Locally improvised rail buses would potentially save millions of dollars spent on traditional trains in areas with low load factors.
Whatever the type of railway buff you are - a train spotter going into technicalities or a train traveller who merely likes to experience different types of train travel - this is going to be a great experience.

But a word of warning - this journey definitely is not for those who prefer the comforts of First Class travel!
Page first published on the 21st of December 2001

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